Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry today.
Schlumberger For Tiffany & Co. No Heat 6 Carat Ruby and Diamond Ring
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. 5.94 Carat Oval Cut No Heat Ruby and 1 Carat Total Diamond Ring. Ring size 6.5, adjustable. The ring setting is a 1 of 1, with a Ruby center ...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
3.60 Carat Burma Ruby Oval Cut and Diamond 18K Gold Men’s Ring
Located in Miami, FL
218K yellow gold men’s statement ring, circa 1990s, featuring a 3.60-carat oval-cut ruby described as Burma origin, bezel set at center and surrounded by a radial ballerina-style halo of 22 tapered baguette diamonds totaling approximately 2.10 carats. The dome bombe-style shank is pavé-set with 92 round brilliant diamonds totaling approximately 5.15 carats, bringing the total diamond weight to approximately 7.25 carats. Crafted in substantial 18K yellow gold, the ring weighs 28.55 grams and is currently a size 12. The diamonds are graded approximately F-G color and VS-SI clarity. The design combines a bold men’s ring profile with a high-jewelry ruby and diamond layout, giving the piece strong scale, color contrast, and hand presence. Product Specifications: Item Type: Men’s Statement Ring Metal: 18K Yellow Gold Ring Size: 12 Sizing: Resizable Weight: 28.55 grams Style: Bombe / dome pavé ring with ballerina-style diamond halo Period: Circa 1990s Center Stone: Ruby described as Burma origin Total Diamond Weight: Approximately 7.25 carats Total Diamond Count: 114 diamonds Center Stone Details: Stone Type: Ruby Origin: Described as Burma origin Carat Weight: Approximately 3.60 carats Cut: Oval cut Color: Rich red Setting: Bezel set in 18K yellow gold Diamond Details — Ballerina Halo: Stone Type: Diamond Cut: Tapered baguette Diamond Count: 22 stones Total Carat Weight: Approximately 2.10 carats Color: F-G Clarity: VS-SI Setting: Cluster Ring Diamond Details — Pavé Dome Shank: Stone Type: Diamond Cut: Round brilliant Diamond Count: 92 stones Total Carat Weight: Approximately 5.15 carats Color: F-G Clarity: VS-SI Setting: Pavé set across the dome bombe shank Design Details: Center Stone: Oval ruby bezel set at the center Halo: Radial tapered baguette diamond ballerina-style surround Shank: Wide bombe-style dome shank pavé-set with round brilliant diamonds Gold Tone: Rich 18K yellow gold Profile: Large-scale men’s cocktail / statement ring Total Gem Presence: 3.60-carat ruby with approximately 7.25 carats of diamonds Condition Report: The ring is presented in excellent estate condition overall. The center ruby is securely bezel set, and the surrounding tapered baguette and round brilliant diamonds are arranged across the halo and dome shank for strong brilliance and coverage. The 18K yellow gold mounting shows age-consistent wear from prior use. Ring size is currently 12 and may be resized by a qualified jeweler. About The Ring: This men’s ruby and diamond ring...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Burma Ruby 3.7 Carats AGL Graded No Heat and Diamond Ring
Located in Bay Harbor Islands, FL
This ruby and diamond ring features a 3.70 carats no heat Burmese oval ruby, surrounded by round diamonds weighing approximately 2.70 carats. Comes with AGL report stating that the r...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Natural Burmese Ruby and Diamond Cocktail Ring by Boucheron, circa 1945
By Boucheron
Located in London, GB
Boucheron Burmese ruby and diamond cocktail ring. Set to the centre with six round old cut natural unenhanced Burmese rubies in open back claw settings...
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Van Cleef & Arpels 0.95 Ct. Round Center Ruby and 2.10 Ct. Diamond Cocktail Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A Van Cleef & Arpels Cocktail Ring with a 0.95 ct. Center Round Ruby and 2.10 ct. Diamonds. The total weight is 7.60 grams. The Ring Size is US 6. SKU: 510-QGEMJPJ
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
GRS Certified 5.04 Carat Burma Ruby & Diamond Ring
Located in Bangkok, Bangkok
This stunning ring features a GRS-certified 5.04-carat Burma ruby, renowned for its deep, rich red color and exceptional quality. The ruby’s striking shape and vivid hue are magnific...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
David Webb Ruby Diamond Bombé Domed Cocktail Ring
By David Webb
Located in Palm Beach, FL
David Webb ruby and diamond bombé-style domed cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum. Diagonal wave design sections are set with double rows of rubies and round brilliant cut ...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Diana M. 1.70 Cts. Ruby and Diamond Fashion Cocktail Ring
By Diana M. Jewels
Located in New York, NY
14 kt yellow gold ruby and diamond ring featuring a center 0.50 ct oval cut ruby surrounded by 4 sections adorned with 1.20 cts tw of micropave diamonds
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold
Bulgari Burmese ruby Trombino ring, circa 1980.
By Bulgari
Located in London, GB
Bulgari Burmese ruby Trombino ring. Set to centre with one oval mixed cut natural no heat Burmese ruby in an open back claw setting with a weight of 1.88 carats, flanked to either si...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage GIA 1.12 carat no heat ruby diamond 18k yellow gold bombe ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This beautiful vintage ruby and diamond bombe ring is a bold 1980’s design, centered by a GIA-certified oval brilliant cut ruby weighing 1.12 carat. Of Thailand origin with no heat t...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.
