When thinking about the colorful gemstones and flashy forms that so frequently characterized 1980s jewelry, it is impossible not to conjure images of the expressive confections that Paloma Picasso created for legendary American luxury house Tiffany & Co. For iconic work such as the Loving Heart ring and the Love & Kisses brooch, Picasso mined what she admired about urban street art in New York City’s grungy subways and brought it to fine jewelry-making on a global stage.
The daughter of artists Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, Paloma was destined for creative success. She was determined to succeed on her own, however, and didn’t rely on her parents' renown. Picasso graduated from the Université de Paris in Nanterre, where she studied jewelry design and costuming. She spent a short period in the late 1960s as a fashion designer and a jewelry stylist for a Parisian theater company, an experience that essentially ignited Picasso’s career. Critics took notice, and her friend and French fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent commissioned her to make costume jewelry for his runway collections.
Picasso designed a collection of necklaces and bracelets for the Greek jewelry firm Zolotas in the early 1970s, and her success with Saint-Laurent led to an important connection between Picasso and Tiffany & Co. design director John Loring. Picasso jumped at Loring’s request to present a table setting at a 1979 Tiffany & Co. exhibition, and within a single year, Loring commissioned her to design jewelry for the brand. Her first proper collection, Paloma's Graffiti, is her best-known work for the company.
Paloma had joined the illustrious ranks of Elsa Peretti and Angela Cummings — both revered jewelry designers who’d signed contracts with Tiffany just before her. Her Graffiti collection, which initially comprised a range of both slender and bubble-letter-like scribbles, X’s, O’s and other figures in 18-karat gold and palladium, was an extraordinary debut for her. Finding inspiration in Keith Haring’s Pop art as well as the street art that covered Manhattan subway cars of the era, Picasso introduced a graphic quality to her inaugural Tiffany line.
“In the ‘70s, people were starting to tag subways and walls, which had everyone outraged,” Picasso explained of the concepts behind her vibrant rings, earrings and necklaces. “I wanted to look at graffiti differently and try to make something positive out of it.”
Picasso would later draw on nature for her sterling silver-and-pearl Olive Leaf accessories at Tiffany and frequently created gold necklaces and bracelets that were set with a striking mix of colorful semi-precious stones.
Throughout her career, Picasso has garnered acclaim from many institutions such as the Fashion Group International and was presented with an award in 1988 by the Hispanic Designers Council. She has been recognized the National Museum of Women in the Arts, and her work is held in the collections of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History and the Field Museum in Chicago.
Find vintage Paloma Picasso Tiffany & Co. brooches, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Paloma Picasso for Tiffany Fire Opal and 18k Gold Necklace Circa 1981
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Weston, MA
A striking early design by Paloma Picasso centered on a superb approximately 40 carat oval faceted vivid orange fire opal, bezel-set within a substantial rounded mount of 18k gold. T...
Fire Opal, Opal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$4,184Sale Price|20% Off
Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso 18K Yellow Gold Pendant Necklace
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Chicago, IL
Exquisitely crafted, this authentic Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso pendant necklace showcases the iconic designer's artistic vision in radiant 18K yellow gold. This sophisticated p...
Chalcedony, Yellow Gold, Gold, 18k Gold
$14,450
H 2.05 in W 1.7 in D 0.32 in L 27 in
TIFFANY & CO. 1977 Elsa Peretti Jasper Touchstone Pendant Necklace In 18Kt Gold
By Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
A jasper necklace designed by Elsa Peretti (1940-2021) for Tiffany & Co. This is a very rare vintage touch-stone necklace created in New York City at Tiffany & Co. by Elsa Peretti, back in 1977-79. This model is rare and was conceived as a casual necklace with a free-form pendant beautifully carved from a single piece of natural Reddish Jasper which is displayed with a concealed inlaid gold mounting. The touchstone is attached to a long links chain made up from 18 karats yellow gold. The most interesting fact about Peretti's pieces is that all of them are not equals, each piece has his own personality and are unique, with some variations in shape. Country: New York City, United States. Period: Modernism, 1976-1978. Weight: 29.20 grams (18.75 Dwt). Measurements: The pendant is 52 mm by 43 mm by 8 mm, (2.05 x 1.70 x 0.32 Inches). Chain length: 27 Inches (68.6 Cm). Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the 18kt yellow gold and signed in full as follows, "©PERETTI 18KT TIFFANY & CO.". Elsa Peretti She was a very famous designer that joined Tiffany & Co in 1974 and change the complete role of diamonds and color gemstones in fashion for the everyday wear and elevating the status of the sterling silver jewelry. mostly using unusual gemstones and materials. All her creations are as modern today as ever. Literature: Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. Blue Book, 1975-76, Pp-24. For this necklace model illustrated. Collateral: This Elsa Peretti jasper...
Jasper, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$2,500
H 0.56 in W 0.44 in D 0.21 in L 16.15 in
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso 18K Gold & Citrine Dot Pendant Necklace
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine signed gold and citrine Dot pendant necklace By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. In 18 karat yellow gold. With a bezel-set citrine cabochon. Set with an integral bail and ...
Citrine, 18k Gold
Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso Groove Pendant Necklace in 18 Karat Yellow Gold
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Brand: Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Material: 18K yellow Gold Chain Length: 20'' Long Chain Thickness: 1.7mm Pendant Dimension: 12.6 X 6.9 mm Necklace Weight: 15.5 gm Stamped: T &...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & co Paloma Picasso pendant chain 18K Yellow Gold
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany & Co Paloma Picasso Pendant Chain Material: 18K yellow gold Chain Length 8'' each side total 16'' Long Three round damonds: 0.33 tcw Diamond Clarity: VS1 Color Grade: E-F Nec...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
TIFFANY & Co. Elsa Peretti 18K Gold 24mm Round Pendant Necklace
By Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
TIFFANY & Co. Elsa Peretti 18K Gold 24mm Round Pendant Necklace Metal: 18K Yellow Gold Chain: 16" Pendant: 24mm in diameter Weight: 6.50 grams Hallmark: TIFFANY&CO. ©Elsa Peretti 7...
18k Gold
Faye Kim 18K Gold Ruby Rondell Pendant, 16 Carat, Contemporary Design
By Faye Kim
Located in Darien, CT
Faye Kim's 18K Gold Natural Ruby Rondell Pendant features a cap and granulation detail and is handcrafted in her signature green gold with a matte finish. The pendant showcases a str...
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold
Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. Necklace
By Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This 18K gold and diamond necklace designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. was created in 1980. It is designed as a torsade formed of multiple strands of box chain gathered by h...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Open Bottle Necklace by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
By Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
Located in London, GB
Open bottle pendant in 18K yellow gold on a 30cm yellow gold chain. Signed Tiffany & Co, Peretti. Date: circa 1970s Weight: 5.8g Size: 3 x 2.3 cm Length: 30cm Hallmarks: Signed Tif...
18k Gold
18K Gold Pendant Jade Egg, Circa 1970s, Gump's San Francisco
By Gump's San Francisco
Located in Northampton, MA
What a treasure for the Gump's collector and jade lover! This 1970's jewel from the iconic San Francisco retailer, Gump's, features a hand-carved deep forest green nephrite jade egg...
Jade, 18k Gold
Yellow Diamond Pendant .60ct EGL Certified Natural
Located in Northampton, MA
A rare, non-irradiated natural yellow diamond weighing .60 carats is the heart and soul of this magnificent and truly rare 22" pendant. Today, virtually all fancy-color diamonds achi...
Yellow Diamond, 14k Gold
Natural Baroque Pearl Pendant, GIA Certified Natural & Untreated
Located in Northampton, MA
A jewel unlike any other — this extraordinary pendant suspends a GIA-certified natural pearl, not cultured, not enhanced, and not replicated by modern aquaculture. Formed organically...
Pearl, 15k Gold
Jade & Diamond Pendant Midcentury Certified Untreated Burmese Jadeite
Located in Northampton, MA
Deep emerald green with a glossy, entirely hand-polished shine, this gorgeous 19th century - early 20th century- carved jadeite jade stone is set into a later, exceedingly simple han...
Diamond, Jade, 14k Gold
Jade Pendant Carved Peaches Certified Untreated
Located in Northampton, MA
This succulent highly translucent reddish-orange jade pendant was hand-carved in the middle of the previous century (circa 1970s) and depicts peaches, long a symbol of longevity. The...
Jade, Gold, 14k Gold
Jade Necklace Certified Untreated by Ming's Midcentury Chic
Located in Northampton, MA
This multicolor jade necklace from the 1950s or thereabouts was created by the venerable Hawaiian jewelry store, Ming's. Like Gump's in San Francisco, ...
Jade, 14k Gold
