For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Platinum by Cartier: Triumph of the Jewelers Art (Book)
By Cartier
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
By Franco Cologni and Eric Nussbaum This beautifully photographed and illustrated book is the first survey of Cartier's work in platinum. Platinum is known for its incomparable allur...
Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary by Hans Nadelhoffer (Book)
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
This book traces the history of the famous jewellery firm, and shows examples of its designs for clocks, watches, necklaces, tiaras, swords, pins, and art objects. Here, for the first time, is the authorized story of this legendary firm, told with the help of never-before-published photographs and working sketches. The author, noted jewel expert Hans Nadelhoffer, was given full access to Cartier's extensive archives. These include photographic plates dating back to the early 1900s and recording each creation in actual size. The personal sketchbooks of the Cartier family and of key designers, as well as the actual jewelry design books...
Cartier L'album (Book)
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
A large beautiful photographic book on the work of the renowned house of Cartier. There is an illustrated index with text in French and English to the rear of the book with descriptions of the pieces that feature in each of the full page illustrations and photographs. There are photographs of some of the famous customers that they have supplied, including various members of the Royal family, Indian...
Harry Winston: The Ultimate Jeweler (Book)
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
This book tells the story of Harry Winston, who for more than 50 years was the dealer and jeweller who dealt with and designed some of the worlds most wonderful jewels. Over the cour...
The Property of a Private Collector Christie's Geneva November 1997 (Book)
By various
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
A beautifully photographed hard backed sale catalogue from Christie's dating to November 1997. This is a single owner sale featuring some fantastic pieces, with 91 lots in total incl...
The Master Jewelers (Book)
Located in North Yorkshire, GB
This is a beautifully photographed book which provides a great overview of fifteen of the most famous and most important jewellers from the mid 19th century to the late 20th century. Each of the fifteen chapters are written by an expert in their field - the chapters are on: Faberge, Castellani and...
Cartier High Jewelry Exhibition Catalog Book, Paris, 1989
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
The Art of Cartier A Cartier high jewelry exhibition catalog book, The Art of Cartier, Paris, 1989, The Musee du Petit Palais, Paris, France. O...
Paper
Cartier Paris Londres New York Red Jewelry Book Hardcover Small Book
By Cartier
Located in Moreno Valley, CA
Cartier Red Jewelry Book English Edition Hardcover Small Book. 80 pages of beautiful iconic jewelry and the history of Cartier. In good condition showing only minor wear on cover. In...
Cartier High Jewelry Exhibition Coffee Table Book, 1997
Located in New York, NY
CARTIER 1900 - 1939 Paris, London, New York. This special hard-cover book was published in honor of the exhibition, 'Cartier 1900 - 1939', held at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, from April 2, 1997, through August 3, 1997, and the British Museum, London, from October 3, 1997, through February 1, 1998. This exhibition was organized jointly by the two museums. Foreword by: Dr. Robert G. W. Anderson, Director, British Museum "The firm of Cartier is widely recognized as one the world's greatest designers and manufacturers of jewellery and objects d'art. This exhibition is timed to coincide with the 150th anniversary of the founding of the company in Paris in 1847." Preface: Judy Rudoe, Department of Medieval and Later Antiquities, British Museum "Previous exhibitions devoted to Cartier have encompassed the entire period of the firm's history, from 1847 to the present. The aim of this exhibition is to take a fresh look at a more closely defined period, from around 1900, when the firm's distinctive style becomes identifiable, to the end of the 1930s, which saw a dramatic change of style that led to a quite different aesthetic." A gorgeous exhibition book highlighting the first four decades of the 20th century when the renowned Paris-based firm known as Cartier expanded to London and New York. Specially taken photographs present a breathtaking array of necklaces, bracelets, brooches, rings, as well as cigarette cases, clocks, and objects d'art. 450+ illustrations, 350 in full color. A great piece to start a collection, add to one, display on a coffee table, library shelf, etc. Author: Judy Rudoe Publisher: Harry N. Abrams Inc., New York, NY, and The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Published: 1997 Language: English Printed and bound: Italy Binding: Hard Cover with cloth binding in red burgundy with silver embossing Dust-Jacket: High-gloss, four-color process. Designed by: Harry Green...
Paper
Cartier Paris Londres New York Red Jewelry Book Hardcover Small Book
By Cartier
Located in Moreno Valley, CA
Cartier Red Jewelry Book English Edition Hardcover Small Book. 80 pages of beautiful iconic jewelry and the history of Cartier. In good condition showing only minor wear on cover. In...
Paper
Cartier Love Ring
By Cartier
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Cartier Love Ring Metal: 18K white gold Size: 9.5 Reference number: 427827
High Jewelry by Cartier Contemporary Creations Hardcover Large Book 1st Ed.
By Cartier
Located in Moreno Valley, CA
High Jewelry by Cartier Contemporary Creations Hardcover Large Book. 1st edition. A sumptuous tribute to Cartier’s creations with spectacular new photographs of unique pieces, many o...
Paper
Cartier understands the value of preserving the signature codes of great design, and how to tweak it for modern aficionados.
Throughout the season, timepieces are clues to the characters' character.
