The father of so-called “fabulous fakes,” Kenneth Jay Lane was a spirited innovator within the jewelry industry, designing elegant and luxurious pieces without the use of real jewels. And while Lane aspired to create classic designs for earrings, bracelets and necklaces intended for everyday wear, his pieces caught the attention of celebrities, royalty and socialites.
From a young age, the Detroit, Michigan-born Lane was a lover of fashion. He studied at the Rhode Island School of Design and the University of Michigan. He pursued a design career in New York City, and a failed start in the art department of Vogue magazine led to a decade of designing shoes for the likes of Delman and Christian Dior.
Lane would occasionally develop shoe designs for friends he had in the fashion world such as Bill Blass and Arnold Scaasi. A show for the latter afforded him the opportunity to beautify shoes with rhinestones and create bangles and earrings to pair with the footwear — he found plastic bracelets at discount variety store and had them embellished by craftspeople at a shoe factory.
A love for costume jewelry design emerged thereafter. Lane created his own collection and admirers such as Jackie Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor showered him with praise. A pearl necklace he designed was worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. In the early 1960s, ready-to-wear pioneer Hattie Carnegie purchased Lane’s jewelry line. Lane was given the position of design director for Carnegie but he soon changed course, moving instead into a small studio and pursuing his own path.
Lane worked with milk glass, gilded silver hardware, faux coral and other materials, and sold pendant necklaces, dangle earrings and modern bracelets to private customers. He was fond of renowned fine jewelry houses Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels and designers such as Jean Schlumberger, and cited having found inspiration in Egyptian and Indian jewelry over the years as well as Art Deco jewelry. Lane’s designs, which he called “faque” and “junque,” became well-known for their distinctive color combinations and clever characteristics such as embroidery. By the time he purchased a small jewelry factory in Providence, Rhode Island, where his accessories would be made during the 1960s, Lane had secured relationships with top Manhattan boutiques and his work had caught the attention of fashion magazines.
Directed by the filmmaker Gisèle Roman, a 2018 documentary about Lane’s life and work called Fabulously Fake: The Real Life of Kenneth Jay Lane features interviews with legendary fashion designers Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch and Diane von Furstenberg.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Kenneth Jay Lane brooches, rings and other accessories.
Yves Saint Laurent Gilt Leaf Bracelet
By Maison Goossens for Yves Saint Laurent
Located in New York, NY
Striking Yves Saint Laurent Gilt Leaf Bracelet from the 1990's France. Criss crossing leaf motifs create a braided effect when worn. 1990's France. 8" x 1.5". Excellent condition.
Gilt Metal
Boucher Zippered Cuff
By Boucher Jewelers
Located in New York, NY
Unusual figural cuff by Marcel Boucher of a half opened zipper on a linen covered clamper cuff. Timeless cool. 1.25" Wide, Interior diameters: 2.25" X 2". Excellent condition.
Gilt Metal
Extraordinary Modernist Biomorphic Artisan Cuff
Located in New York, NY
Wonderful and amazing Biomorphic Artisan Cuff, handmade in brass by a talented jeweler in the 1950's. This wonderful unsigned cuff was undoubtledly created by a very fine studio jeweler. The quality is extraordinary and the amazing design falls into Artist-Jeweler territory. When worn this piece transforms from every angle. Rendered in patinaed brass ( which we have left unpolished). Dimensional and sculptural like the tiered rice paddies of China or the undulating plateaus of Gibbings Mesa...
Brass
Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Bronze and Exotic Skin Cuff, 1980
By Yves Saint Laurent
Located in New York, NY
Super Chic Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture 1980 Cuff Bracelet. Art Deco styling in darkened copper over bronze with padded snakeskin, suede and cal...
Bronze
Hand hammered Cuffs, Claire Deve for Claude Montana AW 1981
By Claire Deve for Claude Montana
Located in New York, NY
Pair of Hand hammered cuffs by Claire Deve for Claude Montana. Handmade in brass with leather lacings. Designed to be worn on upper arm or wrist. Autumn Winter 1981 France. Excellent...
Brass, Gold Plate, Gilt Metal
Golden Art Deco Ribbed Cuff
Located in New York, NY
Art Deco gilt ribbed cuff set on a spring band for easy wear. Large hollow golden lozenges are set onto the band for an impressive and bold look without th...
Gilt Metal
YVES SAINT LAURENT YSL Vintage Gold Tone Arabesques Cuff Bracelet
By Yves Saint Laurent
Located in Nice, FR
YVES SAINT LAURENT vintage gold tone cuff bracelet embossed with large arabesques on a textured background. Embossed YSL Made in France. Indicative measurements : inner max. measur...
Gilt Metal
JACQUES AN LANH Vintage Sculptural Brass Cuff Bracelet
Located in Nice, FR
JACQUES AN LANH vintage sculptural brass cuff bracelet. Embossed AN LANH Paris. 20th century artist referenced in the book : Bijoux Contemporains, Une Passion (Chantal Bizot et Nad...
Brass
Gilded Hinged Cuff Bracelet with Texture Finish By Kenneth Jay Lane, 1990s
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in McKinney, TX
- Vintage item - Collectible costume jewelry piece from the '90s - 7.5" circumference, fits small to medium sized wrists - Interior measures 2" x 2.75" - .75" width - Gold plate...
Vintage Gold Tone Flexible XO Bracelet Cuff Circa 1980s
By Castlecliff
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Gold Tone Flexible XO Bracelet Cuff Circa 1980s. This is a very classic bracelet, but with a twist. In the 1980s, the XO was all the rage. I love a...
Mixed Metal
Vintage Italian 18 Karat Gold Sculptural Cuff Bracelet 1970's Design
Located in North Miami, FL
This thick and stunning vintage Italian sculptural bracelet is stamped 18K Gold. It has great weight and presence. it has 3 rows of 18 K yellow gold that is recessed and 3 rows that is frontal giving it it's sculptural entity. It has an in and out pattern of gold as in a weave pattern. It is beautiful, timeless, classic and will work day or evening. It is hallmarked 18K. There is a florentine like pattern on the gold and it is extremely well made. This is a very very fine Italian 18K gold cuff bracelet. The weight is 51.7 DWT. There are two safety hooks and clasps. This will fit a wrist of 6 inches in diameter which is a small wrist to a medium small wrist. The small wrist will have some wiggle room. It will fit a slightly larger wrist which would be a small to medium that will have a tighter fit like 6.5". The inside diameter of this gorgeous bracelet is 2". This has good weight to it and is a very special elegant Italian 18K gold bracelet...
18k Gold, Gold
Robert Lee Morris Gold tone Modernist Cuff Never Worn 1980s
By Robert Lee Morris
Located in Wallkill, NY
RLM Vintage Cuff, circa 1980s Collection, Never worn. Measures 1.5" at the widest and tapers down to about .66" This is a very tiny bracelet best for someone with less than a 6" wris...
